Shiitake Mushrooms, Sliced

The smell is that of dark soy sauce and reduced Chinese black vinegar: dark and pungent. It’s a scent that might make you eager to take deep breaths of it or toss the whole bag out the window. However, once reconstituted in water the smell dissipates and all that’s left is the innocent mushroom. Bite into one and enjoy the soft surface, meaty texture and toothsome crunch. The flavor is not at all like the smell. Think a weak black tea, bitter and sweet.

The dried cloud ear is mellower than the wood ear mushroom (black fungus) and has a black and grey appearance as opposed to the wood ear’s black and tan. Dried black fungus mushroom is useful in many classic Chinese and Japanese soups and stir-fries. To mix it up, reconstitute it in water and mince it, add the mushroom and the broth to a Thanksgiving cornbread and sausage stuffing to give it a bit more textural intrigue and Asian flavor.

A North American favorite on the East Coast, the Hen of the Woods mushroom grows in large, clustered masses that look like the feathery tails of chickens. (Hence the name.) They have an enjoyable flavor that possesses a subtle spice.

The Hen of the Woods mushroom pairs well with strongly flavored meats that have been smoked, grilled, or massaged with a potent spice rub. Of course, this shroom can also take the place of meat in pasta dishes, mixed grills, or tucked into tacos with a bit of pico de gallo and hot sauce.